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1. Atlas Case Serial Number Lookup
2. Atlas Case Serial Number Identification

Piano Serial Numbers: Location, location, location. Piano serial numbers usually have five to seven digits, but may have fewer or more, depending on the manufacturer and age of your piano. Serial numbers may also include a letter as well. Here are the TOP FIVE places to locate the serial number of your spinet, console, or upright piano.

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1. Member

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   I just brought a very old Atlas 10 ' lathe that I cant even find a model number on,where is the best sorce for parts on these machines,I know its not much but it might suit my needs. THANKS C3006

2. Stainless

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   Clint:
   Ebay is a great source and I have dealt with a fellow on ebay that sells by the name confusedcheme and he has been excellent to deal with--He is in Gresham, OR--my only ties is a satisified customer.

3. Junior Member

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   I think that the Atlas lathes were made by Clausing, you can contact them here: http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm
   They still have parts, but not cheap. You can also find lots of info on the Yahoo group atlas_craftsman:
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
   And I think the serial number is typically somewhere around the right (tailstock) end of the lathe bed.
   I have a 12', it's been a lot of fun for me to use. Someday I hope to buy a real big heavy machine for more serious fun.
   Thomas

4. Hot Rolled

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   Try antfarm200 on Ebay. Usually has a good variety of older Atlas parts & change gears.

5. Titanium

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   Clint, what is it you need? I have one of these that I am parting out, might have what you need.

6. Senior Member

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   Rex, how far along are you in the parting out? When I upgrade from my Craftsman 12x36 with QCGB eventually, I am wondering if it will be worth more dead than alive. It is in good shape but recent sales of Atlas lathes in Central Texas were nothing remarkable. Not quite enough $$ to close the gap when I find that cherry Clausing 59xx or SB 10L that I would like. Decisions..decisions.

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   Rex
   I dont have a parts breakdown for it,the part I need the worst is a casting that goes inside the carriage and holds the gears that run it up and down the bed.It is held on by 3 screws which one of is broke. I am going to try and post a pic. Thanks for all the help. clint
   

8. Hot Rolled

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   Clint,
   You should find that gearbox assembly on ebay pretty quickly, but they don't go cheap. Meantime, you might try degreasing it really well, rough up with 60grit, degrease again. Then use JB weld epoxy to glue it back together. It will be stronger if you lay a piece of angle aluminum or steel over the outside of the joint. Should work well enough until you can replace it.
   I am in the process of making a new gearbox with some improvements, mainly 6061 aluminum,bronze bushingsm and leave as much material on as makes sense. Got the drawing done but need to finish the phase converter to run the mill. Good Luck.
   Greg

9. Stainless

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   I have a manual for a 1933 9' Sears Metalcraft lathe and the pictures/diagrams in that bear a strong resemblance to your lathe, though the feet look a lot different. The Metalscraft was probably made by Atlas for Sears and Atlas later bought out Clausing, but then changed the name to Clausing. There's a slight chance that Clausing could provide some parts or maybe drawing for parts that are no longer sold.
   Email me if you want a copy of the manual in PDF format. There isn't much to it, but it may be of some help.
   Mike

10. Diamond

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    Clint,
    The model number on many Atlas lathes, particularly the Craftsman-branded ones, is on the FAR side of the bed (seems like an odd place, but..).
    If you stand in front as though you were working at it, then look over the bed in the middle (or use a mirror), you might see it.
    The serial number, as Thob pints out, is typically on the bed. Mine is stamped into the top of the ways at the far (tailstock) end.
    Yours looks something like the one shown here:
    http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/index.html
    If you can figure the equivalent Craftsman model number, you may even be able to get parts through Sears.
    Steve

11. Plastic

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    The part no on my old list is 10f-11 Gear case,the ser no on mine is on the tailstock end of the bed-a riveted on plate

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    There is a 10-f parts list on the yahoo group in the files section under the parts manual folder.

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    I think it may be a 10-D as that is what starts all the casting numbers.I got a 10-F parts book off the net and its close but not exact.Thanks for the link steve that info has been very helpfull. The sn is stamped on top of the far right side of the bed. The broken part has a 11-8 stamped in it I found it after cleaning it up for the JB weld . Rex if you have that gear box I am intrested as even if the JB holds the shaft hole is worn badly. Seems to be a simple enuf machine and I am enjoying messing with it but finding parts seems like it will be the biggest challenge. Thanks clint

14. Plastic

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    Your lathe looks a lot like mine,and mine is a 10 D with the 3/8 ways on it. I never found a serial number on it anywhere.

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    I hate to ask this question as Im sure if you didnt allready know before you will know my ignorance now but what good is the back gear assy. on this mach.It seems to run fine with it not engaged and when you engage it on mine it just locks it down.You never know if you never ask. [img]smile.gif[/img]

16. Diamond

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    Engaging the back gear as you have done will lock the spindle. That is a common way to install or remove the threaded chuck and face plate.
    To actually use the back gear for slow spindle speeds, as for threading, you must also move a lock pin somewhere on the spindle. I am not sure where it is located on your lathe. I think it might be on the right side of the large gear on the spindle. Pull it out, so the gear is not pinned to the belt pulley.
    Larry

17. Cast Iron

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    Clint,
    On the chuck side of your bullgear there is a pin that locks it to the cone pulleys. You need to pull it out to disengage the cone pulleys from the spindle or back gear will lock it up. You'll need to push it back in to use direct cone drive again.
    Kevin

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    Important tip: don't engage or disengage that
    pin when the spindle is turning! [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Seems like all used atlas lathes have to have
    one side of the crossfeed handle busted off.
    That's the way mine came. The real old ones
    did not have back gears, they had a secondary
    belt drive to get low range!
    Mine also had the traverse gear box under the
    apron busted up into pieces - but the clausing
    service center was glad to sell me a brand new
    one!
    Jim

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    Before you use the backgear, good idea to lube the inner spindle. There is a set screw cover over the oiler in the bottom of the second pulley from the right (if I recall correctly). On mine the backgear was used so infrequently that it appeared frozen, even with the pin pulled. Put a lot of oil in the oiler hole and let it seep, refill, seep, etc until it freed up. Works good now. Nice and slow for threading..

20. Diamond

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    Clint,
    Go to:
    http://www.atlas-press.com/servicebulletins.htm
    for copies of Atlas bulletins regarding lubrication, back gear, spindle removal, etc.
    You may need to look close at your lathe when comparing to these bulletins, as there are differences among the models (e.g. my backgear spindle lube is a setscrew on the shaft, not in the pulley).
    Also, give them a call. They can supply some documentation (parts lists/diagrams and price sheets).
    There are phone numbers at the web page:
    http://www.clausing-industrial.com/
    Not sure if those are the right numbers, but you want to talk to Jolene Olds. Be sure to have your model number. She'll fix you up with documentation.
    They might have the book 'Manual of LATHE OPERATION and Machinist Tables' that covers your model. You should get it.
    Bulletins and other type of documentation (for accessories such as the taper attachment and tool post grinder) they have sent me for free. Not sure what the price on the book is.
    I noticed that you also have the cast iron legs. You should bolt that to the floor and not have it on any kind of rubber feet. I did, and I could measure deflection with a DTI in the toolpost when I pushed on the lathe bed. I now have it on the floor resting on leveling shims and will bolt it down when it moves to its final location.
    Steve

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Atlas Case Serial Number Lookup

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Atlas Case Serial Number Identification